Day 57. Burtons Track to Makahika Outdoor Centre.

Today 29.4 km. Total 1528.4 km (+12). 10 hours (0800-1800).

Once again it took longer than normal to pack up and I was on my way at 0800.  I knew it was only 1 km to the 1500 km mark so when I saw some Toi Toi fronds recently cut down on the track I gathered several and carried them up the hill to make sure I had something to mark the distance.  At the junction and start of Burtons Track I marked 1500 km and took a photo.  It took a couple of goes to get the timing right for a jumping shot with the camera self timer but I ended up with a suitable shot to celebrate the half way point of the trail. 

1500 km HALF WAY!

View from the start of Burtons Track

I was pretty chuffed to be at this milestone and it almost seemed to come too soon. For some reason I had it in my mind that Wellington was the half way point. I sat for a while absorbing my achievement and thinking about how the journey was continually exceeding my expectations and how much I was enjoying myself. 

As I was up high I had internet connection so I posted my half way photo to Facebook and I received a message from am old army friend offering accommodation in Waikanae which was great.

It was nice sitting be sun looking at the view but I forced myself to get moving at 0840. Burtons track was a nice track.  It started dropping down to a river at a nice gradient to allow fast travel without being too steep.  The track was in good condition and was clearly marked. 

After 30 minutes Geoff came thundering past at a very fast pace.  10 minutes later the rest of the guys flew past. I walk at a faster than average pace through the bush but these guys made me feel like a granny with their impressive speed.

Burtons Track

Burtons Track

Burtons Track

10 minutes later I was surprised to see the guys at the river but when I saw Geoff soaking wet I realised why. He had tried to cross the Tokamaru River using a log and slipped ending up fully immersed,  pack and all. Luckily he didn't hurt anything except his pride.  It was especially funny given the amount of river crossings throughout the day where there was no way to avoid getting wet feet.

I kept going and shortly after the guys came storming past again. 10 minutes later I caught up as they must have taken a break and then they disappeared into the distance leaving me in their dust.

The track continued along the river crossing numerous streams and the river a couple of times.  

The guys at Tokamaru

Crossing Tokamaru River (thanks to Romain for taking photo)

And 10 minutes later crossing it again

After a bit in the open there was an information board at the site of Burtons old house. The track is named after the guy who built it to access his farm. He also built a swingbridge across the river and one day he fell from the Bridge and broke his leg. He crawled back to his hut, fed his dogs and then crawled nearly 4 km in 12 hours to get help.  Unfortunately he died in hospital from his injuries.

From this point the trail was on the track he had built by hand. Burton was not afraid of hard work! It followed the river undulating in and out of small streams through the bush and then baby pines.

Some open bits

Nice big orange triangle

The track Burton made

Burtons Track

Interesting roots

View once through the bush

It was then just over 5 km of gravel roads, coincidentally passing some land I had considered buying a couple of years ago and past the reservoir.  I had lunch on the dam enjoying the views.

Lunch on the dam

The Reservoir

Interesting flower if you could call it that

The next track,  the Mangahao-Makahika Track,  was great.  It was well maintained though did have frequent minor boggy bits. It started with a climb and then undulated for a while before climbing onto a ridge and then followed the ridge line for a while. After a viewpoint it dropped quickly to an old tramline that it roughly followed crossing, and walking in,  the Makahika Stream continuously for nearly an hour.   I was really happy to be back wearing the Inov8 shoes as they drain so quickly after stream crossings and have excellent grip in the mud.

Lovely track

Clear and fast

Goblin trees

View from Archers Viewpoint

The trail through the stream

Into the farmland

The final river crossing

And nearly at the road

There was some lovely campsites near the end under Punga Trees which I did consider camping at but I decided to push on knowing there was potentially some Trail Angels near the end of the track.  Being Christmas Eve there was a strong likelihood they were not home or had family around but it was worth the risk.  If I couldn't stay with them I would just camp at the next trail car park.

The track then emerged from the bush into farmland for a couple of km and then it was 1.5 km to the Makahika Outdoor Pursuits Centre.  As I approached I saw there were several cars and it looked like they did have visitors.  I figured I would just ask to fill my water bottles and move on.  As I got to the gate I saw a blackboard welcoming TA trampers for Christmas which was a great sight.

I walked to the house and was warmly welcomed as if I was an expected guest by Sally and John. I was told dinner was at 1830, my room was in the lodge below the house and to use the shower, washing machine and help myself to food. Sally and John had welcomed 10 TA trampers for Christmas with amazing hospitality.  They had been told I was coming by the guys. It was like a little reunion as I came down the hill to the lodge. Joey,  Geoff, Julein and Romain ("The guys"/"Team USA and France") I was expecting.  Also there was Jack Saari (famous for wearing short pink shorts on trail), Ange and Phil ("The Brits" I walked with through the rain in Pureroa Forest) and Arne and Lena (the tall SOBO Germans who were going NOBO through Pureroa Forest when I met them). Apparently Fabian was invited to stay but had made the decision to continue on and camp at the trail car park.

I had a shower but didn't bother doing washing as I was leaving in the morning. At 1830 we walked up to the house and met Sally and John's family.  I am not sure what they thought of all these scruffy trampers crashing their Christmas Eve Dinner but they were all very friendly.

We sat around talking and drinking (Sally gave me a lovely white wine). Then dinner was ready and after the family we went through,  oldies first which was the Brits and me. I didn't mind being called old when it meant being first in for food. Dinner was a Duck Breast perfectly cooked,  a green salad with capsicum,  avocado,  cucumber and raspberries with a balsamic vinegar dressing and ciabatti bread - fantastic!

Though I had intended to keep walking tomorrow  Sally was forcefully convincing to make me stay using underhand tactics like listing all the food that would be served with Christmas lunch.  My resolve quickly weakened and then collapsed in the force of good company and great food versus alone in a hut eating a dehydrated meal. 

We continued talking until it got dark then the younger ones went back down and built a fire.  All us oldies stayed at the house talking with Sally and John and their parents.  I then headed down to the fire and at 2330 we went into the lodge and a few of us saw in Christmas at midnight before going to sleep.

Relaxing before dinner

Campfire

Night 57

Day 56. Palmerston North to Burtons Track.

Today 29 km trail + 2.5 non trail. Total 1499 km (+12). 7 hours 30 minutes (1030-1800).

I made the most of the great shower before finishing packing and leaving at 0730. I stopped at McDonald's for breakfast and stayed there an hour and a half to update my blog.  I then went to Countdown supermarket but they didn't have everything I wanted so I also went to Pak n save. Now fully loaded I walked back to the Fitzherbert Bridge,  via a service station for an ice cream.

I was back on the trail at 1030. once across the Bridge the trail headed to the university (where I got my bachelors and masters). It then followed the Turitea Walkway for 3 km.  This was a nice easy trail through bush,  forest and farmland.

Fitzherbert Bridge

Turitea Walkway

Great rubbish bin with Palmerston North theme

Turitea Walkway

There was then 2.5 km road walking before turning into a Green Corridor which was a lovely grass track beside, and over (3 times) a steam. I liked this trail but I imagine many people road walk around it because they don't want to get wet feet which is a shame as it is a nice track.

This is what a shorn Alpaca looks like - very funny (on left)

The first of the stream crossings

Green corridor

Third Stream crossing

Very cute Alpaca

Final bit of Green Corridor

Next was a short sealed road which turned to gravel road and then a single track gravel path which is popular with mountain bikers.  This was in bush for 2.5 km before coming into the open just before linking back to a gravel road.

It was then sealed and gravel road walking for 9.5 km to the end of Kahuterawa Rd. The last few km were pretty as we followed the stream.  Unfortunately during this section I had christmas carols stuck in my head. It was only two of them and everytime I was not consciously thinking of something they would sneak back to the front of my mind. The two that were stuck were 'Santas Coming to Town' and 'Rudolf the Red Nosed Raindeer'. Unfortunately I only know some of the words so it got a bit repetitive and I started coming up with my own words.

View during road walk

From the end of the road the trail went on an old logging road which is now a popular mountain bike track. I had actually been on this track for the Army MTB champs several years ago, on a borrowed mountain bike that the gears were slipping and the brakes the old V Brakes which are hard to get used to after having used disc brakes for a while. I think this was a set up from the Linton team to stop my Southern Team taking out the competition. There were a few steams but I was able to rock hop all of them keeping my feet dry  At the last one I filled my water bottles ready for camping.

Start of mountain bike track

Track up to Scotts Road

More track

Weta on the trail

At the end of the track I followed Scotts Road for nearly two km then turned left and in 50 meters was at the start of Burtons Track.

Very impressive sign at Scotts Road junction

Bridge crossing into forest

I was a little unsure here as the notes say daylight access only but I was not sure which part of the track this restriction applied to.  The first part was forestry,  then DOC land, then private farmland and then DOC again. I figured the restriction wouldn't apply to the DOC land so I figured I would camp once across the boundary.

Unfortunately the forest had been logged and there were only baby pine trees so there was no shade. The gravel road followed the stream then headed up a small hill.  Once back down I spotted 4 familiar tents at the junction and it was Team USA and France.  I stopped to talk and got my first,  and likely only,  Christmas present - a candy cane.

Forest Road

I continued on a few km and set up camp near the boundary,  but I couldn't resist my favourite camping location under pine trees so I was not quite across the boundary.  It was the magic toadstool that weakened my resolve.  Who could resist camping next to this beautiful toadstool.

Beautiful Toadstool

Night 56

I stopped walking at 1800 which seemed really early given my late finishes but is back to my former Wanganui River routine.  With my late start it was a short day which is probably a good idea with new shoes though they were great.  I noticed how much lighter they are.  I had no trouble with my shin today and was able to walk full speed which I think is because the shoes are lighter which means my tendon is not having to lift as much and is not under strain.  I guess I will see.

Day 55. Palmerston North zero day.

Today 0 km.

I had a good sleep in then had breakfast in bed and read for a while.  At 1130 I headed out with the first priority being my resupply parcel from the Post Office.  I then headed to Bivouac to pick up my walking pole section to replace the one that I bent. I sent an email to the shop before the river trip and when I got to Wanganui they emailed me to let me know it had arrived.  I also swapped my Icebreaker socks for free again thanks to the lifetime warranty.  The staff were really friendly and interested in the trail.  The manager took photos of my Solomon Shoes to show the manufacturer where they were consistently blowing out for every TA tramper who has them.  I was not impressed with the durability of these shoes.  Day 3 the inner soles became unwearable and the mesh started ripping at 300 km with open holes in them by 500 km.

Unfortunately Bivouac didn't have anything else I liked so I went to several shops to try trail runners but they either didn't fit or were too flimsy.  I took a break for lunch and saw Romain (from river trip) with another TA hiker I hadn't met before called Jack. Then Joey and Julien turned up so we did a catchup. The guys had hired a car in Wanganui,  driven up to Tongariro and done the crossing in good weather,  driven back to Wanganui and then walked the trail to Bulls. From there the 3 hitched to Palmerston North to get essential things done while Geoff walked the rest of the way.

After lunch I went back to my shoe quest without luck so I decided to go back to Bivouac and get the Inov8 shoes I started with. I figure there is not as much road walking now so I should be good in them again.

I then hung out in a cafe filling up with smoothie and coffee before heading back to the Backpacker, stopping at Subway for a sandwich for diner.  I struggled with the Internet so gave up updating my blog and just relaxed.  Fabian turned up so we caught up with what we had been up to. I then read,  packed up and went to sleep.

Night 54, 55