Day 25. Auckland to Manakau.

Today 46 km. Total 639 km (+8). 11 hours 30 minutes (0800-1930).

I had a crappy sleep as the new Australian Lady was a really bad snorer. Unfortunately she did not keep a rhythm which I could sleep through but alternated between normal snoring and grunts and gurgles.  Not pleasant.  I managed to wake her once but she was back to sleep within a couple of minutes.  Normally being in a female only room with generally under 30 year olds there is no snoring but this was an older lady who you don't normally get in a dorm. This lady did say that night she tried to get a single but they were booked out - unluckily for us.

I was on my way this morning at 0800 after getting a pie for breakfast. I was not excited about today going through the city but I actually found it ok as there were large parts in parks.  First I headed back to Albert Park where I had left the trail and it was just a short walk to the Auckland Domain.

Heading to Auckland Domain

Now following the yellow symbols

Or the yellow signs

Being a Saturday there were heaps of people out playing Cricket (for those that don't know this is a boring complicated game invented by the British that lays from 5 hours to 5 days depending on the version bring played.  Play stops for rain or bad light and they have tea breaks.  Personally not my cup of tea).

Then it was another short raid walk to Mt Eden which is pretty cool as it had a prefect cone crater and fantastic views of Auckland in all directions.  One Tree Hill was easily seen and that is where the trail headed next.

Volcano Cone on Mt Eden

Invercargill that way

I did a quick detour to climb to the top as I haven't done that since I was a kid and there actually still was one tree on One Tree Hill (an activist chopped it down). From there I could see Mangarei Harbour my next destination.

Statue of Cambell who donated Cromwell Park to Auckland

Pheasant in Cromwell Park

One Tree Hill. That is not the one tree, that was cut down by an activist a long time ago

The view from One Tree Hill

The walk there took me through Royal Oak where I stopped for an early lunch and coffee.

The trail then headed a little down the road and into a little park then back onto the road and down to the end of the Coast to Coast Trail.  I was surprised they was no marker or sign to signify the end.  I headed up a park beside the road and then across a bridge over the motorwayand back down the motorway.

Cute little park in Royal Oak

Flower in Royal Oak Park

Bridge over the motorway

 They are putting in a new overpass and doing construction.  I got a fright when I saw a sign closed to everyone, including pedestrians on Saturday but it is for 29 Nov not today.  I followed the road beside the motorway for a while.  I passed a motel called Airport Harbour View  which is a lie on both counts as it is not close to the airport and the only Harbour view might be a glimpse of water between the massive concrete tanks.

The trail then crossed the estuary on the old highway Bridge which is just for bikes and pedestrians now.

Looking over at Mangare where t ge track follows the shoreline

Mangare Bridge

Outrigger racing

These birds are not dumb

I then followed the Coastal trail for several to Amberly Park.  Now this trail had a concrete footpath but it also had really wide grass strips as well so it was a really enjoyable trail.

Once in Amberley Park the trail followed a grass track around the coast.  Along the way were some interesting information panels on the birds,  geology and history of the area.

Amberly Park

Information panels at Amberley Park

I saw a couple of trampers ahead and could not help myself from speeding up to try catch them.  This is one of the reasons I prefer walking by myself.  I am very competitive and would push the pace continuously to be as good or better than everyone else regardless of size, fitness or any other factor.  I nearly caught up to them but they pulled into the camp ground so I didn't get to find out of they were TAers or just day walkers. The trail then joined a gravel road and followed this for 7 km along the Watercare Track which is refurbished land from the old sewage treatment area.  There were several areas protected for the birds and I was surprised to see Black swans.  I thought these birds were fresh water but there was a big flock of them in the salt water.

Watercare Track

I think it is a Tern

Swans in the sea

The Watercare Track part the new treatment plant

The track went past the new sewage treatment plant and continued along the water edge until coming out at a car park with toilets.

The trail then narrowed to walking trail 1m wide and continued following the coast. At a small TA marker it turned off the nice trail and followed paddocks to the end of the trail.  I decided to follow one of the short withs through the Otuataua Stonefields and was a little disappointed that it was just rocky paddocks. Maybe I missed something.

The last part of the trail before hitting farmland

Lovely stone walls in this area

The Stonefield markers

Back on the trail I passed the Avocado Orchard gifted by someone to the community which everyone can help themselves to 5 avocados for free. I couldn't see any avocados so I moved on.  The was a series of shortish road walks and then I was at the airport.  The great things about the roads near the airport is their great has verges.

I stopped in at McDonalds for a smoothie and small fries and they gave me a cheeseburger for free. They must have seen the hiker hunger as I gazed longingly at the menu.  While eating I started taking to the lady beside me after the usual curious look at the pack and horror at the speed I was inhaling my food. She was fascinated by the thought of the trail and knew someone she thought might be interested in doing it so she asked lots of questions which filled in the time and forced me to eat at human normal speed,  not thru hiker speed.

I then continued out of the airport area and heading towards Manakau. It was pretty neat walking under the fight path of the big planes as they were coming in to land.

No room for touching down early

Air New Zealand Black colour scheme

After 3 km out was a right into a little County road and 1 km later I was at the Puhinui Reserve.  For a little quiet Reserve away from a city and not signposted I was really surprised how flash the toilets were.  They were the electronic ones where you press a button to lock your door and then a polite man tells you the doors will unlock in ten minutes.  Then I was treated to music while I did my business and was wished a nice day as I left. I wonder which person on the regional council thought that was a good use of  rate payers money,  nice as it was for me and the 1 or two people a day who probably use it.

From the fantastic toilet it was following a fence line with a heard of curious cows following. The track then turned into City Park standard and followed the steam for 1.5 km before emerging through an industrial part.

Pretty flash toilets at Puhinui Reserve

Pretty pond

The change from paddocks to path

It was then on the main road for a few hundred metres and then onto Wiri Station Road which is usually really busy but was almost deserted.  I looked at the time and realised I would have to pick up the pace to make check in time at the holiday Park so I could pick up my resupply parcel. I changed gears and started power walking down the road. I quickly reached the junction where the trail cut through a park but I must have missed a TA arrow as I ended I coming out of the park in a different place than I should of.  I quickly identified where I was and was off again with 1 km to go.

On getting near to where the holiday park was I was concerned as there seems to be a new development where I expected the Park.  I looked at my map and decided to go another 100 meters and then turn on my phone to Google the address.  Just after that I saw the sign for the Holiday Park to my relief.  I checked on and the lady asked for more that what I should be paying.  When I questioned it she appologised and said I had been up upgraded but she missed the note.  I had booked into a basic cabin and ended up with one with a queen bed and kitchen-no complaints about that.

Night 25

After settling in I walked up the road for fish and chips,  fruit salad and fruit juice (I am craving fruit and fruit juice at the moment). Then after phoning my Parents to give resupply instructions,  and just to talk,  I went to sleep in a snore free zone.

Today I wore my new shoes and after 46 km they are comfortable and no blisters

Day 24. Auckland. Zero day.

Today was a day of no walking. I had been hoping for a sleep in but not really an option a dorm room. I did laze in bed for a while before heading out for breakfast at the nearby cafe.  I had decided to go to the movies so I saw the latest Hunger Games  movie,  had lunch then saw Fury.

I did find it interesting when waiting to cross Queen Street (main road in city) observing the discipline of the pedestrians at the lights.  The cars were blocked from moving forwards but keeping the crossing open.  Despite no traffic moving none of the pedestrians crossed.  We waited a couple of minutes with no cars moving and not one person crossed until pedestrian signal went green. The would have been nearly 50 people waiting and all obeyed the lights.  Living in Africa this is unheard of.

Then it was diner time so I splashed out for a steak and back to the YHA to finish my blogs before bed.

Gear Review

Well after nearly 600 km of some pretty diverse and at times challenging terrain I think I can now give a gear review with a bit of confidence.

Pack
ZPacks Arcblast 60 l. This is a cubin fibre pack that weighs 572 g inclusive of all extras added. I have added 2 x Hip pockets,  stabiliser straps,  walking pole holders and have it in small back and medium hip belt.

I love this pack.  When i first put it on a strap broke because of a mistake in stitching. Zpacks appologised and gave me $25 instantly to compensate for having to stitch it up and offered to replace the strap once my walk was over. I stitched it up by hand with waxed thread and it has held up fine.

After that initial mishap I was unsure about how it woud go but I love everything about the pack and wouldn't change a thing with the design.  Right from the start I found it really comfortable.  The most I have had in it was 14 kg and even at that weight it was great.  I tend to have a 1/3 shoulder 2/3 hip waist distribution by preference. One day my back gave a twinge so I tightened the hip belt and all the weight came off my shoulders.  The frame keeps the pack shape stay solid and takes the weight into the hip belt. The shoulder straps are comfortable as are the hip belt and back mesh.  You are meant to curve the carbon fibre stays which spreads the mesh back pad from the pack creating airflow but I often forget.  I find it comfortable either way.

The size of the pack is perfect and I have spare room for when I need to add more food for longer legs but I can cinch it in with the side compression cords and just roll the top down more to make it smaller.  I thought I would find the roll top closure system annoying but I haven't

The front mesh is where I store my wet weather jacked and hat.

The side pockets are easy to reach when wearing the pack. I like the small drainage hole to let the rain drain out.

The hip pockets are brilliant.  In one I keep my PLB, phone,  notepad and camera.  The other has my wallet,  toilet paper,  camera mount and snacks.  They have a waterproof zip and have stayed perfectly dry in all the rain.  It isn't until I took them fully underwater that they leaked.

The inside of the pack stayed dry through rain and deep river crossing.

Overall I am really happy with the pack.

Tent
ZPacks Solo Hexamid.  Cubin Fibre (I asked for the heavier weight fabric). Weight including stuff sack and pegs is 529 g. This tent uses walking poles as the tent poles.

I am really happy with this tent.  It is easy to put up,  even in the wind (as long as the pegs can go in the ground). It has not leaked at all.  Condensation is often a problem with single walled tents but I have only had this issue two nights,  both times when I set up with no airflow. The great thing is because cubin fibre doesn't absorb water I just wipe the tent with a cloth and it is dry.  This benefit means after rain I just shake the tent and all the water flies off.  The remaining moisture dries really quickly.  Because it does not absorb water it is not heavier to carry after rain like other tents.  Also I don't need to worry about touching the tent walls when it is raining a the water does not sink through. The final benefit is cubin fibre dies not stretch so there is no sag sitting the night or with heavy rain.

The size is very comfortable for me.  My general routine is to empty my pack every night into one end of the tent and tuck my pack under one of the door flaps with my shoes.  I set up my mattress and that takes up 3/4 of the tent leaving about 50 cm above my head for my gear.  On each side of my mattress is about 15 cm.

The door is an arc with a double zip.  This means I can open it right up and sit in the door. I generally sit in the door and lean out to set up my cooker.  In the rain I reached under the door flap to use the cooker but there is room to do it over the flap if you wasted to risk it.
In good weather I can roll up both sides and there is enough overlap that this would be okay for light rain.  However as it has been cold most nights I have both doors down.

There is more than enough headroom fit me to sit upright.  In fact there is about 20 cm extra headroom.  I have my trekking poles at the recommended height.  If the weather got really crappy I could lower the poles to reduce the gap beween tent and ground.

I am liking my peg combination.  The tent needs a minimum of 6 pegs but 8 is better.  I carry 6 titanium normal (i think 3 mm) diameter pegs and 4 titanium v pegs which are better for soft ground.

Sleeping Bag
ZPacks 5.9" normal width -7degree 900 fill water repellent down weighs 523 g including stuff dry bag.  I liked that I could choose the size of the bag so I wasn't carrying around extra weight.  The Pertex liner is silky and water beads off it when I accidentally spilt some water on it.

The clip at the top of the zip is good to stop the zip slipping open.

My only complaint with the bag is the is no way I would be comfortable below 0 degrees in this when it is rated -7.  I am normally a warm sleeper but I have been cold when the temperatures are below 10 degrees (the coldest night was 7 degrees and I had to put themal top on).  I was wondering if maybe I was given the wrong rated bag as I expected it to be warmer.

Mattress
Thermarest Neo Xlite Womens (348 g)

I have had no issues with this once I learnt not to inflate it too much.  I use a rubbish sack to inflate it which keeps condensation out and is easier than blowng it up myself.  It is easy to get the air out and takes no effort to roll up small again. I remember the first time I unpacked it thinking there is no way I will roll it up that small again but it is easy.  In reviews there were issues with crinkling nose and slipping around on tent floor but I have had no issues with either problem. Overall it provides a good thick buffer from any bumps, socks or stones underneath.

Stoves
MSR Pocket Rocket.  Easy to use and fast.  Love it. Still have at least a quarter of a canister left after 2 boils a day for 19 days (remainder of meals purchased).

Pot 
Evernew Titanium 900ml (109 g).
Great.  Handles stable and don't heat up.

Walking Poles 
Black Diamond Pro Trek Women.  Fantastic.  Love these poles.  They have not slipped once and are easy to extend/retract which I do every night to get them ready for use as tent poles.  The handles are comfortable and the straps comfortable.  These are an extension of me when walking.  Going up hills they help to haul me up the hills.  Going down they take a large portion of my weight to save my knees.  On the flat they help propel me along. Without my poles I would have fallen numerous times.

Shoes
Inov8 Rocklite 295.  On the tracks I love these shoes.  They are light and have excellent grip.  I found them comfortable right from the start and survived 90 Mile Beach with only a tiny pre blister which I got on the last day when I didn't empty the sand from my socks after a river crossing.

My issue with then is on roads.  They are minimalist shows and do not have much cushioning underneath and after a while I could feel the lugs when on roads. I find my feet henge Street a lot of road walking. Also they have small holes in the fabric after less than 600 km.  I think I will go back to this type of shoe when I get to the south  island with less roads.  For now these have been retired and replaced with Solomon XA Pro 3D.

Top
Icebreaker Merino GT long sleeve with stand up collar (loss cycling Jersey). I love this top. I initially wanted a short sleeve top but am happy I now got the long sleeve as it gives me more flexibility for temperature control.  The zip at the front helps with this too.  I like the standpoint collar for the sun protection it gives my neck.  The top dries really quickly and wicks away moisture nicely. out is also doing a good job with smell management.

Undies
Icebreaker Merino.  Comfortable,  dries quickly and doesn't smell.

Bra
Icebreaker Merino Racer.  Comfortable,  dries quickly and wicks away sweat so didn't feel wet when I am sweating.

Socks
Icebreaker Merino Tramping lowcut. Love these socks.  Fit perfectly and dry quickly.  After going through water my feet don't feel wet after about a minute.  They did start wearing over my little toe but Icebreaker has a lifetime guarantee and Bivouac exchanged them instantly.

Camera Mount
I adapted a mountain bike camera mount by Chipping of the strap and some of the mount.  This has left me with a very light swivel mount that I attach with Velcro.  I attach on top of my pole to use as a tripod and I can attach to the bottom of my trekking pole to take selfies.

Rain Skirt
I am using a drawstring rubbish sack and this is a great lightweight way to keep my shorts dry in the rain.

Groundsheet
Window Insulation Film (brought from Mitre 10).  While my tent for is waterproof and fairly robust I like to use a ground sheet to keep my floor clean and it did add an extra layer of protection and peace of mind.  I am more willing to pitch my tent on rough ground with my sheet.  

Day 23. Takapuna to Auckland City Centre.

Today 9 km. Total 593.5 km. 2 hours 45 minutes (1045-1330 includes 20 minute shopping at Bivouac).

I woke at 0830 and went upstairs to join Gil and Melanie for breakfast. After a very leisurely breakfast of muslea,  banana and Puhoi yoghurt I started packing.  Gil came down and we stayed talking about the gear.  It was great to show her the different things.  Because Cubin Fibre is not well known in NZ she was amazed at the light weights. She also liked my rubbish sack rain skirt and the Window Insulation Film idea for supper strong and super light groundsheet.

I eventually left at 1045. Gil offered to let me stay another night and I was very tempted but I wanted to get done things done in the city centre so I was off. I walled back to the spot on Takapuna Beach where I left the trail and was off. The trail was mainly footpath hiking which means finding as many grass verges to walk on as possible,  even if it means crossing the roads a lot.  There were some small parks and a couple of beach walks before climbing Northhead where there are fanatic 360 degree views of the ocean,  beaches,  Devonport,  Auckland CBD and some suburbs.  I had lunch here which was the leftovers from dinner last night which tasted just as good as lady night.

Rangitoto Island from one of the little parks I went through

The final beach and final Hill,  Northhead

Beautiful Pohutakawa Tree in flower

Having my yummy lunch on Northhead

The panorama from Northhead

I then walked down the hill and though Devonport to the ferry.  Walking along I reflected on how far I had come.  If it was taken separately from the whole TA journey it would be a great achievement,  nearly 600 km of beaches,  jungle,  mud,  bog,  bush,  forest, rivers and roads.  The journey had been everything I hoped it would be and I have really enjoyed myself.  I realise I have been lucky with the weather not having a single day where it rained the whole time.  I think the longest continual rain I have had is only a few hours. As well as the landscapes and nature I have been lucky to meet some fantastic people as well.  The friendly openness if most people makes me proud of being a kiwi and thankful to live in a country where it is possible to remain trusting in the good nature of strangers.

Once across the ferry I walked a small bit of the route then went back to Queen St. It was almost overwhelming having so many people around so I dived into the comfort of an outdoor shop,  Bivouac. Here soothed by hi tech outdoor products I had a look at the shoes and selected the Solomon XA Pro 3D  as my replacement shoe.  I used to use these for trail running and hope they will be easier on my feet on the roads but still have the grip for the trails. It was a nice bonus that they match my blue colour theme.  I also mentioned that my Icebreaker socks were wearing out around my little toe and I was immediately given free replacements as they have a lifetime guarantee.  So I floated out of the store with bright new socks and shoes.

My poor worn out shoes with holes in the sides

My bright new shoes and free replacement socks.

I arrived at the YHA International and spotted two Aarn Packs ahead of me. It was the Irish Couple Alan and Lauren who I had met at Whananaki. Unfortunately they were not feeling well after picking up a bug and had pushed ahead to Auckland to try and recover before rejoining the trail. Unfortunately for them the backpackers was booked out and it is likely most of them are as there is a big music concert this weekend.  I would loved to have offered to share my room but I was booked into a 4 person dorm so that wasn't an option.

I was 15 minutes to early for checking so I took a seat and waited.  Once I checked in I headed for my room and relaxed.

Night 23

It was nice not having to worry about racing around to do washing after having . I started working through my photos then went out for a coffee and returned to just sit around chilling out.

For dinner I walked to the nearby restaurants and decided on a chicken and cashew stirfry with ice cream for desert.