Mt Kilimanjaro Day 6

26 Mar 15. Karanga Valley Campsite (4000 m) to Barafu Hut – Basecamp (4600m). Ascent 600m. 0800-1000 (2 hours).

am nil machine not working, pm oS 81/bpm 86.

It rained during the night but was clear when I woke up. It was nice to sleep through the night and not have to get up.

I was woken at 0550 by the noisy porters (not mine) so I just snoozed until 0700 when I had to get up. There was a layer of ice on the tent but it didn’t feel cold. Breakfast was the same again. As I was having breakfast there was an annoying buzzing noise and looking outside I saw someone had brought a remote controlled heli-drone which I assume had cameras on it. Thankfully it was only flying for 15 minutes. I was impressed it was flying at this altitude but it was definitely not a stealth drone with the noise it made.



Good Morning!

At 0800 Nechi and I left, once again the first people to leave despite the intentions of my neighbour who I had overheard insisting to his guide that they leave at 0730 so he didn’t have to walk in the rain again. I heard him woken at 0600 but when I left he was still fluffing around getting ready.

The trail was a gentle uphill through the barren volcanic landscape. There was a frost so I had the satisfying crunch through the ice in the dirt. Looking back down the hill I could see the camp spread out and the clouds below.
 

Looking back down at the camp

After reaching the top of the hill we dropped into a wide valley and then climbed steeply to reach the campsite which was a lot more cramped than previous ones and tents were perched on angles on the hill. For the first time there were tents already up when arriving at the campsite. These tents belonged to the people going for the summit. There were already some people who had returned from the summit who were resting before continuing down the mountain. People continued trickling down from the summit all day with the last ones arriving at 1600 making for a long day for them given most would have started at midnight.

Once camp was set up there was actually some sun so I sat outside reading. The wind was coming in strong gusts and one of the empty tents actually ripped out of its pegs and started flying down the hill. Eventually it got too windy and the mist blocked the sun so I headed back inside my tent for shelter but kept the door open as I enjoyed the view of the mist.

It snowed again last night



Interesting cairns made by the porters



More Cairns and a bright yellow flower which stood out in the grey/brown



Still an easy path



Crossing the valley



Daniel passing us to get the tent set up before I arrived.



Looking back at the path



Not Mt Kilimanjaro but impressive looking peak



Approaching Base Camp



Base Camp

Lunch was vegetable stew and watermelon.

The first of the people from last nights camp started arriving around 1300 by which time the mist and rain had started again. I just do not understand why they continue to leave late and walk through the mist and rain when they could have fantastic views and stay dry by leaving earlier.

Mid-afternoon as I was reading I heard a noise and looked up to see a mouse in my tent. Now this was not your average house mouse but a large and hardy alpine mouse with stripes down its back. It was not particularly concerned about me and was helping itself to some peanuts. I tried to shoo it out of the tent but it had now lost all ability to jump to get out of the door, despite being athletic enough to jump the 15 cm doorway to get in. So I ended up chasing it around and around the tent trying first to get it to jump out (I had both ends of the tent wide open now), and then trying to capture it to take it out. It kept going under my bags and sleeping bags around the edges and I could not trap it in my sleeping bag cram sack. It must have been 10 minutes going round and round and both of us were pretty tired before then when the mouse obviously had enough and rediscovered its jumping ability to jump back out of the door.

The rest of the afternoon passed incident free though I was disappointed not to get any afternoon tea. I got the first twinges of a headache so took a Panadol and increased my fluid intake and it did not reappear.

Dinner was Cucumber soup with fried bread, pasta and the same vegetable dish and no desert. Nechi did the normal briefing after dinner and said we would be leaving at midnight and I told him given my pace we should leave later so he relented and changed this to 0100 which I thought was still too early but bowed to his experience. I went to bed at 2010.

Mt Kilimanjaro Day 5

25 Mar 15. Barranco Campsite (3950m) to Karanga Valley Campsite (4000 m) via 4220 m. 0800 - 1000 (2 hours).

am oS 89/bpm 95, pm oS 90/bpm 90.

Once again it was a clear morning when I woke and there was fresh snow on the mountain.  Breakfast was the same again.



Early Morning View

No more deserted camps anymore

Nechi was ready on time and we left at 0800, the first ones which I found strange as many people would be skipping the next campsite and had a long day ahead.

I really enjoyed today.  We started with a small descent, crossing two streams. Then was the climb up Barranco Wall. Nechi had said I should pack my sticks away so I had hands free but I declined thinking it would not be that steep. To my surprise and enjoyment there were parts that did require hands to climb up the steep rock. I let my poles dangle when climbing these parts and they didn't get in the way. I imagine the climb would be a serious challenge to many people for the steepness, exposure and basic rock climbing skills. Nechi confirmed it is often a big challenge.  We reached the top in 50 minutes and stayed there for 15 minutes for acclimatisation before starting the descent.

Barranco Wall. The path goes up to the skyline

Stream Crossing

Nechi walking through some Centosa Trees



Extremes of groomed trails to now rock climbing



Up and more up

Good fun



Looking back across the valley at last nights campsite



Great views from the top

 Nechi let me lead for the downhills. There was a big downhill, medium uphill, sidle on a really barren bit and then a big descent into a green valley with lots of Centosa trees. Just short of the bottom it started raining lightly and it got heavier at the bottom so I put my rain jacket on. There was one more steep uphill where David caught us and we arrived in camp. 


Across the valley and up another hill

We registered and stayed in the shelter while David set up the tents. I had to wait 15 minutes for the rest of the crew to arrive with my kit and then I could set up my tent. I could hear other people arriving after 40 minutes.  It rained most of the morning and afternoon. Every time I got up to go to the toilet there were more tents up around me and for some reason despite all the space available one group decided to set up right near my door with their mess tent behind my tent so I had people walking past my tent on a regular basis.

At 1130 lunch arrived.  It was fries and coleslaw with watermelon. At 1630 I was given a small plate of popcorn.

Once again the day was spent reading.

Dinner was 1730 and was rice with the same vegetable dish, mango and a pancake with jam and peanuts.

After dinner the weather had cleared and I could see all the way down the mountain for the first time. Unfortunately there was clouds covering the sunset but there was some nice colour behind Mt Meru. The Mountain was still clear and I could see the glaciers.

I went to sleep at 2030.

Busy campsite above the clouds

Loo with a view

Getting closer to Mt Kilimanjaro



Mt Meru

 

 

 

Mt Kilimanjaro Day 4

24 Mar 15. Shira II Camp (3840m) to Barranco campsite (3950m) via 4600m. 0715- 1140 (4 hours 25 minutes)

am oS 88/bpm 84, pm oS 87/bpm 90

I got up at 0300 and it had completely cleared leaving the sky full of stars. I went back to sleep easily and was warm. The hired synthetic sleeping bag is doing a good job.

I was woken at 0600 and the tent had ice on it. I had to put on a hat and my down jacket while I had breakfast. Looking up at the mountain I saw the rain had washed the recent snow dump away.

Breakfast was the same but no avocados.  I was ready to go at 0700 and wasn’t impressed to be waiting outside ready to go while Nechi was still in his tent finishing packing.  Finally he was ready and I stripped off my down jacket and swapped my thermal hat for my sunhat. I also put some thin gloves on and I was glad I did as my fingers were cold for the first hour.



Luxury Toilets

The hole is still very small!

We headed up a steady climb through barren rock with the occasional small alpine shrub to break up the dirt. The dirt was frozen so I got the satisfying crunch as I walked along. Looking back I could see fluffy white clouds below and in the distance Mt Meru poking above the clouds. The track then dropped sharply and sidled down to a stream before heading back up to a ridge. We stopped for the second rest break here and this is where we join the more common Machame Route. David caught us here. We dropped down to another stream and back up to a ridge.  





Crunching through the frost

Looking back down the hill. Mt Meru is in the distance

Nechi taking a break

Mt Meru behind me. Note the gloves as my concession to the cold

Mist on the way in already

Mountain graffiti



The snow has washed off Mt Kilimanjaro

Heading for Lava Tower



Daniel making his load look light

David left us to take the direct route while we continued up to Lava Tower, a tall rock outcrop. The rest of the crew decided to come this way as well. At the Lava Tower I ate some of my packed lunch watching the Ravens flying around.  There were also some mice with stripes on their back.



Lava Tower is the rock formation below the snowline



Lava Tower complete with Ravens

One of many Ravens at Lava Tower

Mountain Mouse

Now heading down Nechi picked up the pace which was nice and then let me off my leash to go my pace so I took off down the hill and kept a good pace all the way into camp, stopping twice for photos of the Centosa trees.

In camp I registered and David had the tents set up but even after two previous days having to change to face the mountains as I had requested the tent was facing the toilet block instead so Nechi made him move it.

There were two other parties set up so crowded compared to what I had experienced. 

Down and up

Looking back at Lava Tower. We came in the gap between the middle rocks



Now this is more interesting. Very Dr Seus

Nearly deserted camp again

The mist quickly made an appearance and there were occasional showers. I kept my tent open but it got too cold so I zipped up. I ate the rest of my packed lunch (fried chicken, mini muffin, peanuts, bread roll, orange and fruit juice). Shortly after I was given a plate of popcorn.

I spent the afternoon drinking hot drinks alternating between milo and tea. When I went to the toilet I was surprised to see there were tents everywhere, including on the path to the toilet making me go cross country to get there.  Well into late afternoon more and more people arrived. They must have either started really late or walked slowly as their last camp was closer than mine. I felt sorry for them as visibility had reduced to 10 meters and it was a damp and cold cloud they had to walk in.

I was cosy in my tent and still no headaches.

Dinner was a nice onion soup with pancakes followed by a strange dark brown macaroni that tasted funny with vegetables. Desert was an orange-again!

Candle for reading

Coming back from my last toilet trip of the night I nearly got disoriented as I weaved my way through some new tents in the thick mist but luckily the flap was open in the kitchen tent  and I recognised my crew and reoriented myself to where my tent was.

Just before going to sleep there was some ominous thunder and it rained hard from 2130 for several hours.  When I got up to the toilet at 0500 it had cleared.